Historical Sketches of the Foreign Missions of the Seventh-day Adventists

Visit to Scandinavia

At the close of the meetings at Basle the question was raised as to when we should visit the Scandinavian missions. I was weary with labor, and needed rest, having spoken twenty-two times through an interpreter, besides writing many pages. We knew that it was late in the season for a visit to these northern countries; June was said to be the best time to travel in the North, and it was planned to hold the Conferences for the next year in that month. But we were not sure that we should remain in Europe till that time, and we felt that the safest course was to visit the leading churches in Scandinavia at the earliest opportunity. The condition of some of these churches had been presented to me in years past, with many things showing that Denmark, Norway, and Sweden were promising fields for labor. We knew that a great work lay before the missionaries in this field. They desired our counsel about the different branches of the work, and we felt that we could advise with them to much better advantage after making them a visit. It seemed unwise to postpone till another summer this part of the work which we had made the long journey from America to accomplish. HS 174.1

We left Basle Tuesday evening, October 6. There were four in our party,—my son William and myself, Sister McEnterfer my attendant and stenographer, and Sister Cecilie Dahl of Christiania, who had remained after the Conference to be our guide and interpreter. We could not afford to patronize the sleeping car, which is more expensive here than in the United States, but we were very fortunate in securing a compartment to ourselves, and by the use of our blankets, were enabled to rest quite comfortably. The plan of the European car is quite favorable to a comfortable night's travel, when it is not crowded. HS 174.2

There is a great diversity in the railway carriages on the roads in Switzerland, Germany, and Scandinavia. On some roads they are divided, like those in England, into small compartments between which there is no communication; on other roads, especially in Switzerland, they are more like our American coaches, where they are entered at the end. The first-class compartments are elegantly furnished. The second-class compartments, which often occupy part of the same car with the first-class, are usually clean and comfortably furnished, and when not overcrowded are more comfortable than our American day-coaches. Many of the second-class cars are divided into two compartments, two-thirds of the room being devoted to the smokers, and one-third to those who do not smoke. The third-class cars are often closely seated with narrow, hard seats. On some roads, fourth-class cars without seats are run for the accommodation of the very poorest classes. Most of the express trains run first, second, and third class coaches, and so different are the patterns that it is not uncommon to see a long train with no two cars alike. HS 174.3

In the car which we chanced to take for Frankfort, the seats could be drawn together, and the high, upholstered back fell forward from one side, making quite a comfortable couch. HS 175.1

We reached Frankfort Wednesday morning about daylight, where we waited two hours. As it was raining, we saw but little of the city. We found the waiting room very pleasant, being large, and furnished with tables, chairs and comfortable sofas, and well supplied with maps and guide books. We spread our lunch upon one of the tables, and with the addition of hot milk from the restaurant, enjoyed our simple breakfast. HS 175.2

Frankfort is an ancient city, mentioned in history as having been the seat of a religious council more than a thousand years ago. It is a place of great wealth, and is said to possess more beautiful promenades than perhaps any other city in the world. Within a short distance of the town are delightful villages, and several famous watering-places. HS 175.3

In this city Charles V., Luther's great enemy, was elected to the throne of Germany, and here his coronation took place. Hither came the reformer on his way to the Diet at Worms. Having been taken suddenly ill on the journey, he rested for a short time at Frankfort. Suffering as he was, and with the prospect of a martyr's death before him, but still undaunted, he wrote to Spalatin at Worms, announcing his approach. “I am arrived here,” he said, “though Satan sought to stop me in my way by sickness. From Eisenach to this place I have been suffering, and I am at this moment in a worse condition than ever. I find that Charles has issued an edict to terrify me; but Christ lives, and we shall enter Worms in spite of all the counsels of hell, and all the powers of the air.” The dwelling occupied by the reformer is still known as “Luther's house.” HS 175.4

From Frankfort we pursued our journey toward Hamburg, passing through a country diversified with hamlets and cities, mountains, rivers, forests, and cultivated lands. Many features of the landscape are quite unlike America. The farming lands are not divided by fences, and instead of our wide spreading fields much of the land is cultivated in narrow strips, each appropriated to a different crop. In summer the plains appear as if covered with ribbon work of almost every shade of green and brown, giving a very pleasing effect. There are few scattered farm-houses. From the open country we pass suddenly into the midst of high, square blocks, in which the people are crowded together almost as closely as in the most populous cities. The houses are usually large, each containing many families. They are expected to last for hundreds of years, and are built in the most substantial manner, of brick or stone plastered over on the outside. The partition walls and the floors are often of stone or brick, and tile or slate is used instead of shingles for covering the roof. There is little danger of fire passing from one story to another. HS 175.5

Many of the houses present a very ancient appearance, with their steep roofs and small-paned windows. Often a considerable part of the house appears to be above the eaves. There may be only three or four stories below the eaves, while there are sometimes four or five above, with as many rows of odd little dormer-windows on the roof. Many of the houses in the small villages and in the outskirts of the towns serve the purpose both of barns and dwellings, the people living in one end of the building and the cattle in the other. Sometimes each end is occupied by a family, while the beasts have the center; these are usually kept in the stable by day as well as by night, for most of the land is too valuable to be used for pasturage. HS 175.6

In this densely populated country, every foot of available land has been cultivated for centuries. Wherever the country is too barren and mountainous for other uses, and there are rivers to furnish means of transportation, it is devoted to the raising of forests. In many places where in former times the forests had been destroyed, they have been replanted at the public expense. In many States they are the property of the government, and are as carefully kept as gardens. There are laws prohibiting even private owners from wasting their forests without regard to the public good. HS 176.1

Here and there, crowning the loftiest and most inaccessible heights, we see an ancient castle, often in ruins, but sometimes kept in repair and still inhabited. Those old battlements must have an eventful history. Some of them, like the Wartburg, were the refuge of the Protestants in the time of the Reformation. Could those moss-grown walls but tell what has transpired within their strongholds, or in the mountain fastnesses around them, we would hear stories of thrilling interest connected with the lives of the defenders of the faith. Those witnesses for the truth were hunted down by the fury of their persecutors, driven into dens and mountains and caves of the earth, because they honored the law of God above the precepts of the church of Rome. HS 176.2

Only by terrible struggles has the right of religious liberty been maintained. When the stake and the scaffold proved ineffectual to destroy the Reformation in Germany, popery summoned her armies, the Catholic States banded together to crush out Protestantism, and for thirty years the tempests of war swept over these now fertile plains and populous cities. At the opening of the thirty years war, in 1618, the country had reached a high state of prosperity. It is said that at that time the methods of cultivation were fully equal to those of 1818. “Germany was accounted a rich country. Under the influence of a long peace its towns had enlarged in size, its villages had increased in number, and its smiling fields testified to the excellence of its husbandry. The early dew of the Reformation was not yet exhaled. The sweet breath of that morning gave it a healthy moral vigor, quickened its art and industry, and filled the land with all good things. Wealth abounded in the cities, and even the country people lived in circumstances of comfort and ease.” Since the Reformation, a school had existed in every town and village in which there was a church, and a knowledge of reading and writing was generally diffused among the people. The Bible had found its way into their houses. The hymns of Luther were sung in their churches and their homes. HS 176.3

But during the terrible years that followed, all this was changed. Foreign soldiery, savage and blood-besmeared, traversed the country, marking their course by pillage, fire, and murder. The greatest imaginable horrors were so common that it was a matter of surprise when they failed to be perpetrated. At the approach of the troops, the terror-stricken people sought safety in flight. “They dived into the darkest parts of the forest; they burrowed in the bleakest moors; they lurked in old clay pits and in masses of fallen masonry; and to this day the people of those parts show the retreats where their wretched forefathers sought refuge from the fury of the soldiery.” The war ended in victory to the Protestants; and the religious toleration which was then won, they have ever since enjoyed. But the long, awful strife had covered the period of a generation. When peace was at last declared, the whole land had become a tomb. Cities, towns, and villages were in flames. The country was empty of men; the high-roads were without travelers, and briers and thorns covered the once richly cultivated field. In some parts no more than one-fiftieth of the population remained, and there were regions left without inhabitant. HS 176.4

Such was the spirit of popery in the seventeenth century, and such is her spirit today. Let Rome but gain the power, and our own favored land would witness scenes like those that covered Germany with heaps of slain, and made her harvest fields a lair for the wild beasts. HS 178.1

At Hamburg, about 7. P.M., we again changed cars, and had to wait two hours. After walking from one station to the other, we were shown into a waiting-room where men and women were eating and drinking, and the air was full of tobacco smoke. We chose to remain on the platform outside. HS 178.2

Hamburg, situated on the river Elbe, contains upwards of two hundred and seventy thousand inhabitants. The trade of all Northern Europe centers here; it is the great port of entry for the German empire, and is the most important commercial town on the Continent. Though very ancient, it is a beautiful city. It was here that Tyndale, when forced to flee from England, began the publication of the English New Testament. In wretched lodgings he endured hunger and cold while toiling day and night to give the gospel to England. The Gospels of Matthew and Mark, translated and printed here, were secretly sent to London as the first-fruits of his great work. HS 178.3

A three-hours’ ride from Hamburg brings us at midnight to Kiel, on an arm of the Baltic Sea. Here we are transferred to a little steamer, and are soon at rest in our state-rooms, glad of an opportunity for a few hours’ repose. In the early morning, we land at Korsor, Denmark, and resume our journey by rail. HS 178.4

Denmark is a small country, consisting of a peninsula and larger and smaller islands. Its area is about the same as that of Maryland, but it contains more than double the number of inhabitants, its population being upwards of two millions. This country lies as far north as Labrador and Hudson's Bay in America; yet the climate is not severe; the winter is milder than in most of our Northern States. No doubt this is largely due to the influence of the gulf-stream, which brings a current of warm water from the Gulf of Mexico across the Atlantic Ocean to the shores of Europe. This is a priceless blessing to its far northern countries, which would otherwise be deprived of many of the blessings of life. HS 178.5

The scenery of Denmark is unlike that of Germany. The surface is an almost unbroken plain, in most places but a few feet above the level of the sea. Some parts, indeed, are hilly, but it is said that if the sea level were one hundred feet higher, more than half the country would be covered with water. The fine forests with which Denmark was once adorned have decayed or been cut down. The land is mostly divided into small farms, the possession of a few acres being the summit of a Danish farmer's ambition. Formerly the greater part of the country was owned by the nobility, but during the present century the peasants or farmers have had an opportunity to buy the land, and thus have become an independent class of society. To us this country wears a more familiar aspect than Germany. The fences separating the fields, the farm-houses dotted over the landscape, and the pretty beech groves, remind us of some parts of the United States. HS 178.6

Denmark has considerable moorland, from which a great quantity of peat is obtained. When burned, this produces much heat, and it is largely used by the country people for fuel. The black turf is cut in square blocks like brick, and laid in long rows to dry in the sun; when dry, it is stacked, ready for market. About the homes of the people it was piled in neat stacks, rounded on the top, like beehives. This is one of God's merciful provisions for the poor. The laboring class are so poorly paid that without this it would be extremely difficult for them to obtain fuel. HS 178.7